chanel week 2
The Coco Chanel era
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1883 - 1971) began his career in fashion in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry to "back to basics", incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Coco Chanel held the title of chief designer until his death on January 10, 1971.
Foundation and recognition [edit]
In 1909, Gabrielle Chanel inaugurated a small shop in the ground floor of apartment of his lover Étienne Balsan in Paris. In that house was meeting the elite of hunters French, who arrived accompanied by their glamorous lovers. This gave him the opportunity to Coco to sell them decorated hats to them.
With Arthur Capel-a group member of Balsan and the only that worked to earn a living-Coco struck up a relationship sentimental. He saw in Coco to potential business woman and the helped purchase the legendary premises located in the Rue de Cambon 31, in Paris, in the year 1910. Thus was formed Chanel Modes. One of the drawbacks to develop the business was the existence of another store haute couture in the same building, so it to Coco was not allowed produce similar suits. In 1913, Chanel introduced feminine sport clothes at her new boutique in Deauville and Biarritz, France. She detested the attires of women who flocked to those beach resorts trying to overshadow to the other with ruffles, hats large, corsets tight and long skirts. The designs of Chanel tended to be more simple and elegant that opulent.
World War I greatly affected fashion. Coal was scarce and women began to work in factories to replace men, which is why they needed a warm clothing that supported working conditions. Chanel's designs at this time were also affected by the relatively new idea of women's sports. During World War I, Coco opened another larger store on Rue Cambon, opposite the Ritz Hotel in Paris. There was selling flannel jackets, straight skirts, sailor tops, long sweaters and skirts and jackets sets. Your merchandise became known in France in 1915, when prioritized freedom of movement and not ostentation and redundancy in her creations. That same year, and in 1917 - the fashion magazine Harper's Bazaar mentioned that Chanel was on "the list of every buyer." Your boutique on Rue Cambon anticipated the increasingly simple dress-coat ensembles, plus evening dresses embroidered tulle or lace.
Coco Chanel won great reputation as a meticulous seamstress. Following the trends of the 1920s, Chanel produced beaded dresses. The suit in two or three pieces, created in 1920, continued with a modern popular appearance. This outfit was recommended as "the new uniform evening and night, going back to 1915". The year 1921 saw the introduction of the first perfume Chanel No. 5. Ernest Beaux created the fragrance for Coco and she named it for his lucky number: five. The simplicity of the brand Chanel was expressed in square design of the bottle, which has never been changed. The perfume was an instant success, especially among women of high society. According to reports, the core feature is due to the belief in superstitions Coco. She used to showcase their collections on the fifth day of the month five. Coco informed Harper's Bazaar in 1923: "Simplicity is the key to true elegance
Parfums Chanel Parfums Chanel was founded in 1924 by Pierre Wertheimer, in collaboration with Coco Chanel, to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products. Theophile Bader, founder of the successful French store Galeries Lafayette, was the man who introduced Coco to Wertheimer. Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader had 20% and only 10% Coco. She was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel. That same year, Coco also introduced her first costume jewelry: pearl earrings, one white and one black.
A new love in her life was the Duke of Westminster. She introduced the world to its characteristic cardigan jacket in 1925. The following year, Chanel introduced the "little black dress" which was listed by Vogue as "the new uniform of the modern woman." That same year, the company produced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland by the Duke of Westminster, Chanel created her first tweed suits. Soon, Coco opened a boutique near the famous Louvre Museum.
While couture and Chanel perfumes obtained success, business relations between Coco and Pierre were spoiled. She resented being associated with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the shares. Coco Wertheimer realized that attempt to exploit their talents for personal gain. She also said he gave the rights to his brand reluctantly. Wertheimer reminding Coco countered that he had founded his company and that he had practically become a wealthy woman. Coco hired René de Chambrun lawyer to renegotiate the terms of the contract with the Wertheimer, but they crushed their attempts.
Chanel returned to Paris in 1953. There he realized that his popularity had declined due to the designer Christian Dior. Had created dramatic Dior "New Look" in 1947, which dominated fashion during the 1940s and 1950s. This "New Look" was going out of fashion and Coco, at 71, decided to "return" at the perfect time. She came back to Pierre for the advise on business and would support financially. In return, he got the full rights of all products bearing the name "Chanel". Their collaboration was worth when Chanel returned to become the leading brand in the fashion industry. The company reintroduced the "Chanel Suit" which was the basis for many of her collections. In February 1955, Chanel introduced the market's famous 2.55 handbag made of quilted leather with chain handles. That same year, the company launched its first cologne for men, Pour Monsieur, and received the Fashion Oscar for her spring collection at Fashion Awards prizes. Later, Pierre bought 20% of shares belonging to Badar and his family gave 90% of Parfums Chanel. Pierre retired in 1965 and his son replaced him. Wertheimer died two years later. Coco's attorney told Forbes magazine that "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement, after one of his horses won the Derby in England in 1956. He quickly went to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him all his life ".
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at 88 years of age. It is said that she was still designing and working until the time of his death. The company management was left to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Phlippe Guibourge. The company continued to have regular success Wetheimer Jacques bought the entire House of Chanel. Some critics felt that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to Chanel, as I was more focused on raising horses. However, the influence of Coco did not vanish with his death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle colony, which was being developed while Coco was still alive. Four years later, was released worldwide the first accessories prêt-à-porter.
Alain Wertheimer, Jacques's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a lackluster fragrance for women outdated. Alain reformed sales of Chanel No. 5 to decrease the amount of shops that sold from 18,000 to 12,000. Also, removed the perfume from the shelves of pharmacies and invested millions of dollars in advertising for Chanel cosmetics. This created the feeling scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed. Alain also tried to change the reputation of Chanel fashion. Looking for a new designer who could take the brand to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.
dior
Christian Dior (Granville, France, January 21, 1905 - Montecatini Terme, Italy, October 24, 1957) was an influential fashion designer, founder of the fashion company that bears his name, Dior, one of the luxury brands most representative of the last sixty years.
Christian Dior was educated by the diplomatic service at the Ecole des Sciences Politiques in Paris. Then, he began working in the fashion industry.
Dior made sketches for Robert Piguet, the great Parisian designer of the time.
In 1946, backed by textile magnate Marcel Boussac, (called the "Cotton King") established a couture house in Paris. In twenty years expanded his business to 15 countries and employs more than 2,000 people. Also diversified its business into other luxury products like perfume or jewelry with a resounding sales success. Some of the most legendary compositions history bear the seal Dior perfume.
It is especially known called "New Look" of 1947 (nickname given by an American journalist), couture style woman proposing shoulders turned, thin waist and full skirt shaped corolla to eight inches of soil. Represents classic elegance and a return to a feminine image, and involved the recovery of luxury and excess depression after World War II.
Even said in an interview in 1953, after ask him which one is the queen? Most liked that dress?, The only queen who dressed, was Eva Peron. In fact, it came to have such an affinity with the glamor of the former first lady of Argentina, who had a mannequin Eve measures in taller.1
After his death, the house Dior has continued its activity with other renowned designers Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano. The house of Dior has dressed celebrities such as Princess Diana, the first lady of France Carla Bruni or the Infanta Elena of Spain, among others.
